Display DM 4800 "Luxdisplays"

Hello folks, greetings from Brazil!
This week I installed the SNAFU LED display bought at the reverb.com store, I have 2seemy installed, when I turned on the TASCAM the new LED display, it showed these vertical lines on the right side, what could have gone wrong? The old display was completely useless, as shown in the second picture. Thank you.
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Hi Woodfinger!

Congrats on the new display. It may be that one of your ribbon cables is damaged, or that the cables aren’t properly and fully inserted. It may also be that you have a defective (new) display.

If the screen looks fine on the 2seemy VGA out, you know the problem is likely happening after its internal board.

I would inspect everything, carefully reconnect it, and see if it improves. Since both the new screen and the old screen are showing a similar problem (vertical line on the right side) there may be a problem u still need to fix in the connection somewhere.

Good luck! Hope to hear some good news.
 
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Hi Mixerizer!

I did the process 4 times! same results, 2seemy is working fine on external monitor.
The most strange, is the the resolution does not look like a "led" display.

Thank you!
 
I think you need a replacement replacement - good luck and I would look for replacement ribbon cables if that doesn’t work. If it were something more serious I don’t think u would see a partial display - to me that looks like a connection or broken internal stuff in the display.
 
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He’s still selling on Reverb, as username SNAFU, it appears. Keep us posted!

https://reverb.com/item/6679806-graphic-display-upgrade-tascam-dm-3200-dm-4800
Just to avoid confusion - I already got a message on this behalf: I am not that snafu on Reverb, nor am I related, married to or otherwise connected to the Reverb snafu :)

To add some info: I got my display from Steven, without any hustle, and with in depth explanation via textmessages (!) at the time of installation!
The display is awesome - I have also 2SeeMee (which obviously is also discontinued?), which works great with a secondary display. Unfortunately the software does not run on my system.
 
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I had the same experience - so far my replacement screen is doing fine. Woodfinger, can you get a replacement screen and try again?
 
2seeMy still available.
Funny thing - I was just looking for it the other day, out of curiosity, since I was notified about this old forum thread.

In addition to the replacement screen, 2SeeMy really added some value to the whole assembly in my studio. I have a second screen attachted to the VGA connector, so I am free to position this screen at will, and still can have look at my parameters.

One thing I never got to run propperly is the software though. Which is a real bummer, because I have to manually scribble notes (or store different profiles, which is a bit overkill for small miniscuel changes) to have a recall on settings. I also frequently sketch out helper files, so that I may remember certain setups I only use occasionally. This is where the software with it's capability of making screenshots could shine - but it does not, at least on my system.

I'm on Win 10 Pro, 64 bit. I tried to run the .exe in modes of legacy windows versions (7, 8, Vista, even XP), but to no avail.

On my 2012 laptop on the other hand, the software does work (Windows 7. 32 bit). I'm rather curious if someone has a solution to this. But sorry - I got carried away :)
 
@snafu Are you referring to the 2seemy software or the screen capture capabilities of Tascam's TM Companion?
 
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@Peter Batah The 2Seemy software. But I messed up a bit - the software has NO screen capturing functionality, but since it is on your PC screen you COULD make screen shots. Sorry for the confusion.

I went down the rabbit hole of drivers, in hopes it would at least show me anything on screen, but...as I said: rabbit hole. As soon as I plug the USB cable of the 2Seemy in my PC it says "unknown usb device", and is marked with an warning sign (yellow sign with exclamation mark) in the device manager.
 
I have a Luxdisplay available, $150. free shipping in USA. I also have many DM 3200 parts for sale.
I am located in N.Y.
 
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Lux display sold to a new member here. I still have almost a complete set of DM3200 replacement parts; reasonable prices.
 
Só para evitar confusão - já recebi uma mensagem em meu nome: não sou tão chato assim no Reverb, nem sou parente, casado ou conectado de alguma forma ao chato do Reverb.:)

Para adicionar algumas informações: recebi meu display do Steven, sem nenhuma complicação, e com explicações detalhadas por mensagens de texto (!) no momento da instalação!
A tela é incrível - eu também tenho 2SeeMee (que obviamente também foi descontinuado?), que funciona muito bem com uma tela secundária. Infelizmente, o software não roda no meu sistema.
Olá, meu nome é Henry, sou do Brasil, uso o Google Tradutor e gostaria de ajuda para operar o DM3200, inclusive se posso operá-lo via PC, pois o uso na igreja e provavelmente seria mais fácil usá-lo em um PC.
What 55 11 995014320
 
If you are ready to install this screen, you don't need to wait for Stephen to respond to you. I personally like the guy and understand why he is a bit eccentric about the install instructions. There are more than a few cases where clients have not read the instructions thoroughly when he provided them in the package, for whatever reason, hence his desire to make absolutely sure you get it before proceeding step by step. His bedside manner is, shall we say, a bit acerbic, but he provides an excellent product and knows what he is talking about. I've worked with more than a few musicians over the years that were far more challenging to deal with but came through in the end. Anyway, let's move on.

First thing is getting the case open to access and remove the factory LCD screen. There are other threads here that address this, but I'll hit the highlights:

  • Remove the screws securing the faux-wood side panels. Unless someone has changed them out, they should be a #2 Phillips
  • You'll need to remove the upper ventilation screen (Doesn't actually ventilate anything). There is in some cases a set-screw on the outside edge on both ends of the screen that needs to be removed, sometimes not. Once the set-screw is removed, take a small to medium sized flat-bit screwdriver to the exposed side edge and gently pries (pry) it up and ease it out of the slot. This will expose five #2 Phillips screws on the panel flange holding the top of the main mixer panel containing the screen.
  • Next you will need to gently pries (pry) the scribble strip panel up and out that sits just above the faders. It is held in place with rubber stripping and will ease up and out if you start from the side and work it up...gently. This will expose the #2Phillips screws holding the bottom flange of the mid panel (Can't remember if there are five or six off-hand)
  • Lastly, before you can open the mid panel containing the effects and LCD screen, there are two #2 Phillips set screws on the side edge of the panel (About 1/3 of the way down the side edge of the mid panel) that have to be removed before the panel will pivot forward from the top. Do this slowly and the panel hinge will catch at the bottom edge holding it open just past 90 degrees so you can get at the screen area.
Removing the old LCD Screen

  • Note in the first picture in the PDF that there is a tan panel sitting on top of the LCD screen that has a red and white pair of wires leading to the upper left of the picture attached to the main mixer board by a plastic (Molex) plug. Unplug it. Next, unplug the connector on the right side of that tan board, undo the two screws holding the tan board in place, and then remove the tan board and set it aside. As indicated in the PDF, the tan board is the Backlight board for the old LCD screen and will not be needed for the new LED screen.
  • You will also need to unplug the ribbon cable attached to the old LCD screen by grabbing it by both edges and gently working it out of the Molex connector. It fits snugly, but it will ease out without any trouble if you rock it side to side slightly as you tug. Do this before you remove the four #1 Phillips screws holding the screen in place.
  • You can now unscrew the four #1 Phillips screws holding the old LCD screen in place being careful not to drop them behind the main board. (I taped a piece of note/typing paper just below it to catch the screws. )
Installing the new LED Screen

The PDF is pretty self explanatory as far as installing the new LED screen, but there are a couple things I should mention.

  • All four screw holes on the new LED screen do not line up with the screw posts on the mixer. Only two of these on one side of the panel will be lined up, the two on the other side will catch the outside edge of the panel to help secure it in place. This creates a tiny offset for the screen in its housing, however does not obscure any part of it. I modified mine by opening the outside edge of the screw holes on the new LED screen with a Dremel tool, which is a delicate operation that I do not recommend unless you are good at this type of thing, which will also void any warranty. My OCD made me do it :)
  • Another important note: Where the red and white leads on the old Backlight board plugged in to the mixer panel, this is where the new LCD red and grey lead depicted in the PDF will plug in. In the PDF it describes removing the Molex housing surrounding the two pins on the mixer and then attaching the plug from the new LED screen. On the newer screens I believe they have the correct plug attached so you can just plug it in without removing the Molex from the mixer pins. If this is not the case, I simply spliced the lug from the old Backlight board onto the new LED screen to avoid potentially damaging the pins on the mixer. I solder spliced mine and shrink wrapped the connections, but a simple splice will work.
  • Finally, respecting the brightness attenuator (The Black Trimmer) and the contrast attenuator (The Blue Trimmer): I believe some changes have been madeof late that negate the need to adjust the Blue Trimmer very much at all. But follow the instructions specifically to bring the screen into view if this isn't the case. Also, be sure that the contrast control on the front of the DM console is centered before adjusting the Blue Trimmer. Properly installed, the contrast control on the front of the console will fade the screen to blank white when turned all the way counter clockwise, and to blank blue (Or Black depending on your screen color) when turned all the way clockwise.
  • Almost forgot about the ribbon connector. Make sure that you retain the original orientation when plugging it in to the new LED screen. Meaning, keep the blue print face-up so the number one pin matches the number one spot on the Molex connector.

I hope this helps and will offer this up for a sticky with a more detailed PDF when time allows. Intended to do it sooner, but it has been a crazy year for all of us. Also, if I have forgotten anything, please speak up.
Ok, first of all, what an amazing tutorial. Only thing, at least for me, I had to unscrew the SD Card compartment, before I could open the console.
But I have one question, this PDF, is that to be found somewhere? I'm in the middle of installing it, and the dropbox link does't work anymore ^^
Thanks a lot, and have a nice thursday ;)
 
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Can someone help me? ^^
I followed all the instruction, though I think I have the newer version of this display, with the already fitting Molex pin. and it turns on, but its just blue... turning the blue trimmer just turns it brighter or darker, but I can't see anything on it...
Has anybody encountered this before? Did I do something wrong? :(
Any help would be greatly apreciated!
 
@Schnackelpirat be patient please and do not repost in multiple threads. If someone knows the answer they will reply but it might take time.
 
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Schnackelpirat:
It sounds like you do not have the ribbon cable properly seated. Try to carefully re-seat the ribbon cable on the display. The second connection is what provides power to the display's back light, sounds like that is the only connection you have.
 

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