Tascam Model 12 Knobs

Yes, I attempted that method with no luck. I didn't want to damage anything so only tried using a small flathead screwdriver to get underneath the "colored cap" and it appears if they are snapped in, that top cover is in there deep. I'd love to have a broken or damaged Model 12 for parts so I could take the whole thing apart. There has to be a way to remove these damn things. That's why I'm hoping our new friend can provide a little more information from his experiences.
 
So I Googled the Tascam Model 12 knobs, and found these pictures of them. It appears to me these damn things should pull off unless one or more of those plastic inner clips actually clip into the potentiometer shaft. I'll try to find what pots are used. Any thoughts?
 

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You could just paint them with glow paint.
"Resident Dumazz" here...thought I'd put my $0.02 in, since removing/replacing the M12's knobs seems to be a problem creating MUCH more difficulty than it's worth...

I actually LOVE the idea of color-coded knobs - usually a mfg'r is smart enuf to build it that way...but - when not - changing them out is ossum. I've done it to a coupla mixers, to enhance my workflow.

IF the M12's knobs are such a problem...well - I'm w @-mjk- here. Why not just paint them - with ANY kind of paint? The way D&D geeks do with their little soldiers??
 
So I Googled the Tascam Model 12 knobs, and found these pictures of them. It appears to me these damn things should pull off unless one or more of those plastic inner clips actually clip into the potentiometer shaft. I'll try to find what pots are used. Any thoughts?
I'm no rocket surgeon - I have to count the rings on my cables every time I use them, to decide if it's TS or TRS - but the bottom view of the knob you show appears to have a normal "D"-shaft opening; the plastic protrusions around the perimeter are molded "spacers" to fit the normal D-shaft (because the mfr in china saves the $0.0002-per-piece cost by not having to mold them full-round, which helps pay for the cost of slave-labor accomodations - y'know, chains, fences, paying the guards who administer beatings and r@yp).

But they should fit a D-shaft...and without any "retention" device - maybe they just fit reaallllly tight?
 
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Yes, I see they are D shaft knobs, but they won't come off using pliers. I tried again last night. If I were to pull any harder it would rip the potentiometer from the solders of the PCB. this is the experience with everyone. you can read the posts above where one mentioned damaging his. Tascam must be using some sort of adhesive which makes absolutely no sense to me. I build midi controllers for a living, so know all about PCB's, potentiometers, and about every synth knob known to man from many manufacturers. I think that's why this is pissing me off so much. I have never seen anything like it and wondering what motives Tascam had for this design. The knobs are ugly in my opinion, and thought replacing them with Moog-inspired knobs would be easy peasy. but this has been the battle of the knob for 6 months. And nobody knows how to properly remove them, nobody.
 
And yes, the color-coded design has been a standard for decades and makes complete sense, this is just more of a fun aesthetics choice on my part than providing any technical benefit. So I get what you're saying completely.
 
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Yes, I see they are D shaft knobs, but they won't come off using pliers. I tried again last night. If I were to pull any harder it would rip the potentiometer from the solders of the PCB. this is the experience with everyone. you can read the posts above where one mentioned damaging his. Tascam must be using some sort of adhesive which makes absolutely no sense to me. I build midi controllers for a living, so know all about PCB's, potentiometers, and about every synth knob known to man from many manufacturers. I think that's why this is pissing me off so much. I have never seen anything like it and wondering what motives Tascam had for this design. The knobs are ugly in my opinion, and thought replacing them with Moog-inspired knobs would be easy peasy. but this has been the battle of the knob for 6 months. And nobody knows how to properly remove them, nobody.
Well...that just genuinely sux rox. It makes zero sense to build something that can't be "un"-built, repaired...and of course, many of us seek to customize...

I can't recall EVER having a piece o'gear that didn't allow for knob replacement. It's absurd.
Even on my floor-pedals for git'r - once I've found my preferred position for each control, I remove the knobs and put the indicator-line at 12 o'clock (these are usually spline-type control shafts) so when I set up to play, I just put every control at 12 o'clock, and I'm set to play. No diddling, no remembering settings. Easy-peasy...

Makes me wonder: when an M12 is sent to Tascam for service...how do THEY take them off? Is there some secret sauce they're not telling anyone else, so no one else can service their stuff, like w/iPhones?!? 🤬👹😾
 
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Just talked to an authorized dealer who is selling the knobs on reverb, I explained what we have been going through, and this is what he said.

"As far as I know, there's no trick to it. They're definitely not glued
down. I've not heard of people having issues getting them off, but we have
never repaired one, so I have no firsthand knowledge to add, unfortunately.
According to their assembly diagram, it doesn't look like there's anything
special to it."

I explained that I am unable to find ANYONE who has taken one of these knobs off successfully and he wrote back...

"Sorry, I don't have more info for you.

Take care,"

So, even an authorized dealer who sells replacement knobs is clueless. According to him they haven't even repaired one, so how would they know? The knob mystery continues...
 
It sure seems they don't want those knobs to come off. There's a guy on Youtube that takes one apart to fix a switch, but he doesn't remove the knobs either, he repairs it completely from the bottom and back panels.
 
Just my 2c.... I remember some Korg gear years ago where the knobs were stuck on, and the trick was to use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive before prising off. Hope you find a method.
 

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