This is an update to all those who continue to have sync issues on the FW1884 and don't want to give up on this great unit. Getting the clock frequency adjusted as I suggested earlier did not pan out. But I finally fixed my sync issues! Totally! It wasn't the driver, and it wasn't the 4 pin vs 6 pin cable, nor the clock, nor anything else but the IEEE1394 chip on the main board at the bottom of the unit. Because the chips are all surface mount, they are very difficult to replace. Instead, I replaced the whole board. I was lucky enough to find one in perfect working order, replaced the board and voila! I have perfect sync and the unit is working like a charm. I am using it now with Reaper and Cakewalk as a control surface as well as additional line inputs for my setup. Just used it on a mixing session of about 50-some tracks and it was great to have it working. So, if you have sync problems, this is probably the same for you. Your best bet is to have that board replaced.
FW-1884 FireWire and Sync Issues
- Thread starter Miguel Queiroz
- Start date
To Carl K...
Man, you're my hero!
You bring light at the end of the tunnel!!
More detailed info about what you precisely did would be kindly welcome... I mean having more details of what components did you change exactly and/or pictures would be awesome, all in order to explain to my trusted tech how to do so. I'm not a competent tech to do that kind of "repairing" to my beloved FW-1884, so need to forward that to a 3rd person. Also having more details of the precise board and chip you replaced and where we can buy it would be really appreciated man!
I have been struggling with this issue during too many years... I love the FW-1884 because the complete set of features and routing that I can't find in any other audio interface yet, even after all those many years.
Fyi, in my case, the problem solves in hot seasons (end springtime and summer) but gets annoying during the colder seasons as I need a minimum 2h window to make the FW-1884 work and the firewire light to light up and be totally in Sync in Windows. I live in Central Europe. I thought it was a problem of getting the firewire port of the Tascam above a temperature threshold enough to make it work properly. But reading you, it seems it's not.
Looking forward to hearing from you soon!!
Thanks SO much again!
Man, you're my hero!
You bring light at the end of the tunnel!!
More detailed info about what you precisely did would be kindly welcome... I mean having more details of what components did you change exactly and/or pictures would be awesome, all in order to explain to my trusted tech how to do so. I'm not a competent tech to do that kind of "repairing" to my beloved FW-1884, so need to forward that to a 3rd person. Also having more details of the precise board and chip you replaced and where we can buy it would be really appreciated man!
I have been struggling with this issue during too many years... I love the FW-1884 because the complete set of features and routing that I can't find in any other audio interface yet, even after all those many years.
Fyi, in my case, the problem solves in hot seasons (end springtime and summer) but gets annoying during the colder seasons as I need a minimum 2h window to make the FW-1884 work and the firewire light to light up and be totally in Sync in Windows. I live in Central Europe. I thought it was a problem of getting the firewire port of the Tascam above a temperature threshold enough to make it work properly. But reading you, it seems it's not.
Looking forward to hearing from you soon!!
Thanks SO much again!
Sharing more details about this would be welcome please! (precise card used, how did you replaced it, pictures...)
Carl K said he replaced the entire firewire board inside the FW-1884. I don't believe he stated what his exact symptoms were prior to replacing the board but it appears that it wouldn't connect at all.
In your case, the symptoms you are describing sound EXACTLY like the problem described in the Tascam technical bulletin 0606:
https://www.deeringamps.com/fw1884/tascam/0606.pdf
If your device connects in warm temperatures and not in colder temperatures, it is unlikely you have a faulty firewire chip.
It is a simple fix for someone with decent soldering ability. I have done this mod on 4 units and it has solved the problem of poor connectivity in colder temperatures every time. Show that bulletin to your tech and he should be able to solve your problem.
In your case, the symptoms you are describing sound EXACTLY like the problem described in the Tascam technical bulletin 0606:
https://www.deeringamps.com/fw1884/tascam/0606.pdf
If your device connects in warm temperatures and not in colder temperatures, it is unlikely you have a faulty firewire chip.
It is a simple fix for someone with decent soldering ability. I have done this mod on 4 units and it has solved the problem of poor connectivity in colder temperatures every time. Show that bulletin to your tech and he should be able to solve your problem.
Hi EarWax, thanks so much for sharing this!!
Definitely will try to do that fix asap. It would be amazing to make it work.
Any suggestions where to get those firewire chips replacements here in Europe?
By the way, I'm a bit confused as the serial number of my FW-1884 is 0080645 and there it says from 0280001 and higher. How should I proceed in my case?
Thanks again dude!
Definitely will try to do that fix asap. It would be amazing to make it work.
Any suggestions where to get those firewire chips replacements here in Europe?
By the way, I'm a bit confused as the serial number of my FW-1884 is 0080645 and there it says from 0280001 and higher. How should I proceed in my case?
Thanks again dude!
Last edited:
If you read the bulletin you'll see that you only need to replace 2 capacitors, not firewire chips.
Serial numbers 0280001 and higher already have this mod so they don't need it. YOURS DOES NEED IT. Take the bulletin and your FW-1884 to your tech and he will know exactly what to do. It should be an inexpensive job. It is very easy to access the board and the capacitors that need to be replaced. I bought the capacitors for about $.40 each. The bulletin even has the recommended part #.
C1210C105K5RACTU
I have used generic caps which have worked just as well, but they need to be the right physical size and value
If your tech doesn't have the exact value and size he may need to order them. Where in Europe are you?
Serial numbers 0280001 and higher already have this mod so they don't need it. YOURS DOES NEED IT. Take the bulletin and your FW-1884 to your tech and he will know exactly what to do. It should be an inexpensive job. It is very easy to access the board and the capacitors that need to be replaced. I bought the capacitors for about $.40 each. The bulletin even has the recommended part #.
C1210C105K5RACTU
I have used generic caps which have worked just as well, but they need to be the right physical size and value
If your tech doesn't have the exact value and size he may need to order them. Where in Europe are you?
Oh I see, thanks so much EarWax for your clarifications!
Apologies for being a bit dumb on these tech duties by the way...
Will follow your indications, thanks again!
Fyi, I'm located in South France.
Apologies for being a bit dumb on these tech duties by the way...
Will follow your indications, thanks again!
Fyi, I'm located in South France.
Hi EarWax, waiting for my capacitors to arrive... in the meanwhile, today I got a different problem... even if the unit is warmed-up (several hours on) before to turn on my PC, when I turn on the PC and the Windows logo is appearing, the firewire LED lights on for a few seconds, then even in Windows totally launched (seeing already the Desktop) it lights off. I always turn on the FW 1884 before to turn on the PC. At least, there are no lights blinking, so I guess it shouldn't be no other major new problem. Then, even if the FW LED is off, I can open the Control Panel, but obviously the Sync text indicator is not appearing. The SoftLCD says connected too. That's a new issue. Fyi, always needed to warm up the unit for a couple of hours and then I was able to go for long hours/days (until the next turn off)... hoping the capacitors replacement will definitely solve that pita. Are you familiar with this very situation?
Also, anybody knows if using firewire port 1 or port 2 on the back of the unit do makes any real difference?
Last edited:
During the years I collected all the software installers and a lot of documents of the FW-1884. I made those available for download down below for everybody who needs this...
http://www.perevert.com/downloads/FW-1884_Docs&Installers.zip
http://www.perevert.com/downloads/FW-1884_Docs&Installers.zip
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