DeOxit recommendation

[shredd]

Hi all - I've got a button on my DP-32 that's getting a little reluctant to "action" when pressed.
Was thinking the DeOxit approach is needed...but threads such as this one suggest it's not always the cure...
Threads such as this one make it sound like a pretty massive undertaking.

But I'm planning on trying the DeOxit treatment...and want some advice:

1. When shopping for it, I see about 12 different variations on the product. Can anyone point me to the one that is best for the pushbuttons/microswitches underneath on my DP and 2488?
2. Having ZERO experience doing this - only reading others' posts about it - it seems like spraying the DeOxit on the OUTSIDE of the button isn't going to do much to get the stuff to the microswitch/contacts below. Is there a secret to do this? Or am I looking at opening up the machine?!? NOOOOOO!!!!

TIA!

 

[-mjk-]

Any one of their cleaner/lubricants will do. You can also use separate products to clean, restore gold contacts and lubricate (like I did with Boston's Channel 7's Neve console back in the 80s). They make fantastic products. Caig saved the day in many situations. Get the product into the control/switch any way you can. Even a little bit of it can solve most problems.

If you post a link to the site where the list is, I will take a look at it and tell you which one I would use.

 

[shredd]

If you post a link to the site where the list is, I will take a look at it and tell you which one I would use.

THANKS @-mjk- ;here's the product list. I'm seeking the one that addresses the typical cause/s of DP buttons becoming unresponsive; has some penetrative ability (since it has to get past the plastic button to the contacts underneath - I presume that'd mean spray, not liquid?); and hopefully won't melt the plastic or take the paint or lettering off the panel.

I'd hope to choose the one that's best suited for the application (specifically, this is for the [TRACK EDIT] button, one of the ones on the right side of the unit below the EQ section)...see the cover image of the manual. But all the buttons on the unit's face are the same thing - plastic button over some sort of contact- or micro-switch.

Let me know whatcha think...and any advice on how to get the substance past the plastic cap to the contacts below.
THANKS!!!
=================
PS - must'a been sum-thin to work for Boston. I think Boston was/is in a class by themselves.
I had another 'online friend' who'd been TomS's touring FX-tech for a spell; he sent me a TScholz "concert-used" git'r pick, because I'm a drooling fan-boi...sadly, it didn’t help - I still play git’r like charlie sheen after a 72-hour crack binge…

 

[shredd]

Saw a post - now unlocateable - that said that using DeOxit "type F" (for faders, controls, etc) was the one to use.

So - next dumazz question: have any of you done this to the push-buttons on your DP or 2488? Is there any secret/trick/method to getting the spray to reach the microswitch/contacts that are UNDER the plastic buttons? Please share!

And...do I need to concern myself with plastic and/or paint damage?

 

[Mark Richards]

These links on the Caig website may be most helpful:
DeoxIT products and their intended use.
Directions for use
The Caig website also has instructional videos that may be helpful.

Caig encourages always testing on a small out of sight area before using any of the deoxIT products. Do's and Don'ts

In my experience, DeoxIT F-5 sprayed sparingly around button edges will usually travel down and get the button working (may take a few separate applications).

 

[BazzBass]

all I know is make sure its a contact cleaner lubricant,whatever make.

Here in Oz, a small can of DeOxit is $40....so I buy the no name brand from electronic shops.

They come with a thin straw to feed it into small gaps so it MAY be enough to get it there. Wipe off any excess. I've used it on dirty pots in mixers and amps with success.

 

[shredd]

These links on the Caig website may be most helpful:]
In my experience, DeoxIT F-5 sprayed sparingly around button edges will usually travel down and get the button working (may take a few separate applications).

SUPER valuable resources for comparing and evaluating the different types of DeOxit for different uses. THANK YOU @Mark Richards !
Am going to evaluate their info; choose the one I HOPE is the best for getting to the microswitches/contacts under panel buttons; maybe even turn the Tascam up on its side, so that sprayed-in stuff will drip onto/penetrate the contacts...
Wish me luck.

Any other readers having done this: ANY advice/direction is appreciated!

 

[-mjk-]

Looks like it's been well covered!

 

[shredd]

Looks like it's been well covered!

Yup...read pretty much every post I could find here (and lots of online blogs, y'tubes, etc) about this stuff and its' use...have learned quite a bit, largely thanks to @Mark Richards's links.
Including a LOT of people who say DeOxit is just a fancier, more expensive contact cleaner, and a waste of money!
My feeling is: for a few extra bux (for a can of stuff that will last me the next couple of lifetimes) I'm willing to buy the best I can find, commensurate with my value of/esteem for my beloved Tascams (even with their sticky buttons).

My current "dilemma" is whether to go with the does-it-all "D5" version, or the "F5" version (meant for faders, plastic and carbon-coated parts like sliders/pots).
After intense scrutiny of the product doc's linked by Mark's post (above), it appears they BOTH have the qualities I'm seeking - in particular their "flushing" properties (to flush crapp out of a dirty switch/contact). So I'm on the fence.

I'm also STILL hoping for ANY feedback from ANYone who has actually done this to the panel buttons on a Tascam unit...like if I should tip the unit up on end when spraying the stuff in, to allow gravity to let it run down onto the microswitch under the plastic button..ANYthing that might help me get the best result/s!

 

[BazzBass]

that sounds like a sound plan, hehe. tilt it so each side of the button gets to be facing up when you squirt DeOxit into it. I wonder if there is an option to assign the remote to track edit?

 

[shredd]

tilt it so each side of the button gets to be facing up when you squirt DeOxit into it

Barring any specific advice from someone who's done this (crickets....) - that's my plan; try to get the spray past the plastic button surface, and hope it sort of runs down onto the microswitch/contacts, instead of past it (which would probably happen if the unit was face up).

I wonder if there is an option to assign the remote to track edit?

Nope...just transport options...

Wouldn't matter if I was a better musician and studio-artist, and could record my trax right in the first place - I wouldn't NEED to constantly edit them to 'get them right'...
Oh well. If it was good enough for the Beatles, it's good enough for me.

 

[-mjk-]

I found some stuff in Taiwan that smelled exactly like Cramolin R5, which predated DeOxit. I used it on my DP-32 by spraying from the top. Please note that if you are spraying the transport buttons, some might seep into the button overlay and leave a visible stain.

Cramolin saved me many times in the field back in the day. We dug up a transmission line going to a tower when the TDR told us there was something wrong. The hardline was crushed (that's right - it was installed and buried that way) and I had to cut the bad section out and insert a new piece of hardline. Of course, this needed to be soldered in and that meant I had to cut the outer conductor away so I could get the torch on the center conductor. Then I had to fashion an outer conductor from copper plates and hold them together with clamps. Before I shrink-wrapped the repair, I used R5 to ensure that there wouldn't be any corrosion from my handiwork. That was the late 80s and the repair is still in good working order.

Channel 7's Neve console was corrupted with corrosion and contamination. I ordered several cases of Caig Lab stuff and I was able to restore the console to working condition. They had many on-air audio dropouts on live news. After the restoration it never occurred again.

Get it, and get on with it, Shredd!

 

[shredd]

Get it, and get on with it, Shredd!

Yup...gonna forge ahead...I'll decide which type to go with, then get it, then sort of do my best in getting the stuff behind the plastic button to the component below. I'm not gonna take the thing apart, and no one has come forth with any past experience doing this.
So it's all ballz from here on. Will post results if the unit survives!!!

EDIT: ordered the “F” version. A 5oz. can, which should last me the next several lifetimes (unless you guys all wanna stop over w PBR’s & nachos to use it in your faders & controls…)
Stand by for results/report…